Alex Reid Travel Blog - South America and Antarctica Cruise, January-February 2025

The first part of this Blog contains my notes taken at the presentations given by the 5 experts on board, plus the captain, the staff captain, the Ice Pilot, and the Port Lockroy crew. There were also port talks given by Carmen Raies on the 5 ports we visited (Punta Arensa (Chile), Ushuaia (Argentina), Stanley (Falklands), Montevideo (Uruguay), Buenos Aires (Argentina)), but they are not recorded here.

If you wish to skip this section, and go straight to the travel Blog, please go HERE!

The 5 expert commentators (plus Carmen) were:
R to L in photo:

Robert "Bob" Headland, general Antarctic expert (British).
Carmen Raies, Port specialist (Argentinian).
Christian "Chris" Gunn, ecology and fauna of Antarctica (British).
Allan Conlin, Ornithologist (British).
Joe O'Farrell, Antarctica historian (Irish).
Robert "Rob" Raincock, Naturalist (Canadian).

9:00am, Thursday, 23-Jan-25: Meet Your Antarctic Enrichment Presenters. I had no notes of that session, which I watched later on the cabin TV. Basically, each was introduced and spoke a bit about their interest/expertise in Antarctica.

Wednesday, 29-Jan-25: Cruising around the Antarctic Peninsula (except when bringing the Port Lockroy team on board).

Saturday morning, 1-Feb-25: Cruising around the Antarctic Peninsula (Elephant Island).

Tuesday, 21-Jan-25:
We boarded the Sapphire Princess cruise ship in Buenos Aires.

Wednesday, 22-Jan-25:
At about 4pm, we departed Buenos Aires and made our way past the mouth of the River Plata into the open South Atlantic Ocean.
Here are some views on the Port side of the ship, then the Starboard side, then the stern (these were actually taken on 24-Jan, but not much changed till we reached Punta Arenas via the Magellan Strait on 26-Jan (except that the temperature gradually dropped!).

Friday, 24-Jan-25:
Today, Friday, 24-Jan-25, we are on our 2nd day of the journey South from Buenos Aires towards Antarctica. We are now at about 44° South (ie a bit further South than the the bottom of Tasmania), so I have not been idle, despite the lack of FB posts. Just to prove it, above are 3 photos of the glorious scenery to be had here in the South Atlantic, looking respectively E, N and W. In the meantime, while the scenery has flashed past (at about 20 knots), we have been enthralled by expert lectures on the history, exploration, geography, navigation, politics, ecology, icebergs, and wildlife of Antarctica, as well as many wonderful photos whetting our appetite! [for instance, I now know the difference between Tabular bergs, Bergy bits (a technical term!), Growlers and Brash ice]. Unless something exciting happens (or I decide to give you lots more facts about Antarctica!), you may not hear from me again till we reach Punta Arenas in Chile on Sunday.

Saturday, 25-Jan-25:
Today, Saturday, 25-Jan-25, we attended several more fascinating lectures on Antarctica. So much info, that I'll need to share some of it once I get some "free time"! Afterwards, I watched the ocean for a bit and saw a couple of whales blow, and several albatrosses (I will rely on Ian to identify properly!, though I think he's off on a Pelagic of his own... indeed he was, a trip called "Flock to Marion" sailing aboard the MSC Musica from Durban (S Africa) to Marion Island, on the other side of Antarctica to us!). I didn't catch the whales on film, but a few birds...(the 3rd is a black-browed albatross; sorry about the focus!)

Sunday, 26-Jan-25:
Today, Sunday, 26-Jan-25 (Australia Day!), we stopped at Punta Arenas in Chile, its most Southerly city, which is located on one of the wider parts of the Magellan stratris (connects Atlantic with Pacific Oceans). We had a tour of the city, and here are a few highlights, starting with the view over the city and Magellan Straits (with Sapphire Princess at anchor), then what is claimed to be the largest Fluke in the World (but I think Esperance beats it...), then the cemetery and its yew trees (including super elaborate tombs, here that of Don Jose Mendez, a very rich and influential local), finally an abandoned jetty now home to many birds (mostly cormorants).

Monday, 27-Jan-25:
Overnight, we sailed on through the Magellan Straits out into the Pacifc Ocean, then quickly turned into Beagle Channel back towards the Atlantic. Today, I rose at 5am to get a view of the several hanging glaciers along the Beagle Channel (between 2 and 8 miles wide, 150 miles long - connects Pacific Ocean with Atlantic, and our port of call, Ushuaia, this morning). Here are some of the spectacular views we got! (one with Christine rugged-up!)

Docked in Ushuaia on Monday, 27-Jan-25. Views from the ship of Ushuaia and its wonderful backdrop, and the route we took from Punta Arenas (labelled 2) to Ushuaia (labelled 3).

Still on Monday 27-Jan-25, having docked at Ushuaia, the most Southerly city in the world (pop. 85,000). Chile reckon their town, Fort William, which is across the Beagle Channel, and so further South, is the Southernmost, but it only has a population of only 4,000, so hardly qualifies for a city. Anyway, we took a bus tour to the Tiera del Fuego National Park, hopping off at various places to see the sights. One place was the end of the Pan-American highway, all the way from Alaska (17,848 km long) [see photo], and nearby a place known as the "End of the World", with a post box whence you can get your passport stamped appropriately - End of the World Post Box, Beagle Channel in background, Chile beyond. Here are some scenes along the way, along with some fauna (eg flightless steamer ducks) and flora (eg Gautheria berries) = I left out the horses, as they were introduced, escaped from farms and have gone wild, and destroy native vegetation - where have I heard that before?? And a lake (Lago Roca, aka Acigami Lake).

Having visited the "End of the World", here is what the local natives had to say about it. Note that the locals were virtually wiped out by invading white (Spanish) people, who introduced cholera... It is now said that everyone living in Ushuaia has about 5% native blood.
"You are at the "end of the world". Mountains, sea and woods together form the landscape, wherein are stories that are told in shapes, colours and movement, even in feelings and absences. To understand them it will be necessary for you to become an observer, attentive to all that surrounds you, big or small, near or far, alive or not, because everything is intimately related. That is where you will find the answers to your questions. The Yaghan people had a word for this way of looking at their world: Maia-Ku. When the spirit of enquiry (Maia-Ku) germinates within you, you will feel more than "at the end of the world", rather at the threshold of a new world ready to reveal its secrets."

Tuesday, 28-Jan-25:
Today, Tuesday, 28-Jan-25, we sailed across Drake's Passage from Cape Horn to the Antarctic Peninsula. We should reach it in the early hours of Wednesday morning. Frequently very rough, crossing it is considered to be "the price you pay to see the wonders on the other side." The worst of the crossing was early in the journey (early hours of Tuesday), when we were thrown about quite a bit, but even so, not really rough. The best views of the mountainous waves, rolling beam-on to us, were from deck 7, but they closed that deck as it was considered to be too dangerous (fierce cold winds, too!). By the evening of Tuesday, they opened that deck, and I took the attached photos (E and W resp.). The Passage is 850 km wide (we travelled at between 17 and 20 knots, ie 31 to 37 kmh, so it should take us about 24 hours). As you traverse it, you cross the confluence of the Antarctic current with the warmer Southern Ocean - the air temp dropped abruptly from 6 to 3°C. BTW, Cape Horn is actually an island South of the coast of Tierra del Fuego - the latter is also actually a large island which creates the horn shape (partly in Chile, partly in Argentina - this can be seen on the Map on our Magellan Certificates).

Wednesday, 29-Jan-25:
Today, Wednesday, 29-Jan-25, we reached Antarctica. Lots of amazing icebergs, especially tabular as in the attached photos. Land visible beyond the iceberg. Lots more later...

Having arrived in Antarctica, though not yet in sight* of the "mainland", we have been stunned by the number and variety of icebergs we've seen. Here's a selection from breakfast time and shortly after. Lots of tabular icebergs, which the Captain says is unusual, not seen on the 3 previous Princess Sapphire voyages this season (they've probably broken off the Ross Ice Shelf). Look at how they tower over the ship...
* more about who first clapped eyes on the Continent (twice the size of Australia) later on...
And I should warn you, there will be lots more iceberg photos!

More iceberg photos from this morning - as you admire them, think of me sacrificing my comfort to go out in the 0°C and windy weather to capture them!
I gave names to several of them, eg "Ducky", "Lizard", "Non-Level Playing Field"... can you work out which?

Thursday, 30-Jan-25:
Today is Thursday, 30-Jan-25, but I got so engrossed in keeping watch for icebergs, penguins, whales that I omitted to post more of yesterday's sightings. Here are some of them now (more from today to follow). They include pics of the Port Lockroy British Base A that you'll hear more about tomorrow.

Guess what!? More icebergs, mixed up with a few penguin sightings, whales and Port Lockroy, sighted today, Thursday, 30-Jan-25.

Today, Thursday 30-Jan-25, we had a visit from the 6 folk who man the British Base A, Port Lockroy. They talked about the work they do and how they got selected (from 1,000 applicants) and what they missed most. They commit to 4 months on the island (which they share with 1,000 Gentoo penguins). Their primary task is conservation, as the base is maintained by the UK Antarctic Heritage Trust (along with 6 other bases on the Peninsula). portlockroy.ukaht.org They each have an assigned role, eg Carpenter (Jim is a conservation carpenter back in the UK, and is trying to find alternatives to plastic-based paints, which flake off, and most oil-based paints are derived from petrochemicals, so he's trying linseed oil), George (Postmaster - it is the most Southerly Post Office in the world), Aoife who is the Museum Manager, Dale (Publicity/promotions, making a 3D version of the base at www.ukaht.org), Maggie (Wildlife Monitor), and Lou. They are mostly fairly young, but that's not necessary, though ability to get on with others is vital (they share a communal bunkhouse, the Nissen hut). They receive a small salary. UKAHT is a charity, so is dependent on sale of merch to survive (see websites above). They are there from 11-Nov (when they have to dig their way through the snow to get into the huts) till 8-March. They have no running water and no fresh food, but depend on visiting ships for variety - we gave them a feed, a hot shower and then invited them to talk to us. The ship's pizza delivery service is the world's most Southerly. They miss being able to go for long walks or runs, and trees! There will be a new crew every year. Here are the main 3 on thre stage.

Friday, 31-Jan-25:
Today is Friday, 31-Jan-25, and we reached Deception Island at 7am. Deception Island is actually the chaldera of an active volcano, with an opening to the ocean called "Neptune's Bellows". It is possible actually to enter the chaldera, but nowadays not allowed as there is a rock in the middle of the entrance that could spell disaster. Because it is still active (though no big eruptions), the water is warmer than the rest of Antarctica, and there are 7 or 8 species of plants here vs only 2 elsewhere on the Continent. There is a colony of 250,000 chinstrap penguins, and several fur seals (actually sea lions).

Today, Friday 31-Jan-25, after having a god look at Deception Island, we are heading North up the Peninsula, from Deception Island in the South, to King George Island and Admiralty Bay in the North (tomorrow, Elephant Island). When we reached Admiralty Bay (home to several national Antarctic bases) the fog cleared, the snow ceased, and the water was like glass. There must be up to 20 glaciers (or ice falls) emptying into the bays, and the Captain took the ship further in than ever before, eg waving to the Peruvian crew. Here are some pics... Several whales, lots of penguins "porpoising"... The first 2 photos show the Peruvian Base and he Polish Base.

Saturday, 1-Feb-25:
Today, Saturday, 1-Feb-25, we arrived at Elephant Island rather early, and stayed quite a while (named after Elephant Seals but we didn't see any this time; but we saw lots of Chinstrap penguins, who are remarkable rock climbers!). We first saw the inhospitable South Coast, then Point Valentine (the first landing place for the crew of Shackleton's Endurance, on 15Apr1916), then round to the Northern side to Point Wild, which Frank Wild (second-in-command) had picked out as a better place to hole-up while a rescue mission was launched. They had 3 lifeboats from the crushed ship Endurance (recently discovered at the bottom of the Weddell Sea). One was fitted out for Shackleton and 5 others to undertake the arduous 1,500 km trip to South Georgia (where there was a whaling station), while the other 2 were turned upside down and became the living quarters for the remaining 22 crew for 4.5 months through the Antarctic winter, on a narrow isthmus of pebbly land (seen in these photos somewhat reduced in size since 1916). Shackleton reached South Georgia and its whaling station. Various plans were laid for the rescue, but all failed till the Chilean government offered the steam tug Yelcho, captained by Luis Pardo (a bust of him stands on the isthmus, rarely if ever seen by large cruise ships, but today the weather was calm so we sailed close); he has an elephant seal seemingly looking up at him in admiration! All 22 were rescued on 30-Aug-1916 and none of Shackleton's crew were lost.

Sunday, 2-Feb-25:
The photo below is of a cluster of mountain peaks know as Snow White and the Seven Dwarfs. They are actually located on the Antarctica mainland, on the Peninsula, near the Port Lockroy British Base A. It is very confusing to know what is the "mainland" and what are islands, as there are so many islands down the Peninsula, all with rugged snow-covered mountain peaks, So this is just one of the complications when trying to find out "who was the first person to see Antarctica?". There are 3 main claimants to that honour.

1. The first is Nathaniel Palmer from the USA; he was involved in sealing, and the sealers (and whalers) didn't give much away about where they had been or what they saw, for fear of competition moving in on their lucrative income source. But he did record on 16-Nov-1820 seeing a landmass beyond the ice shelf.

2. Fabian von Bellingshausen was born in Estonia, but under Russian rule. He was commissioned by the Tsar to go South of the Antarctic Circle, which he crossed on 26-Jan-1820 (66°33'47.5"). His first officer recorded a sighting of land on 27-Jan-1820, but Bellingshausen himself was reluctant to say so - it might have been a mirage, he said. Nevertheless, both Russia and USA have claimed their man was the first, and have erected monuments to these men to that effect.

3. Edward Bransfield was born in Ireland when it was under British rule. He was press-ganged into the British Navy, and made a career of it. He actually saw the South Shetlands but couldn't admit as much, or his Lloyds insurance would have been invalidated (you had to set out your voyage plan before leaving). Nevertheless, word got to the British naval attache in Valparaiso (Chile) who gave Bransfield command of a vessel to go and verify what had (maybe) been seen. He saw the mainland from King George Island (South Shetlands) on 30-Jan-1820. There's no known portrait of Bransfield, so the Brits and Irish (both of whom are somewhat loathe to blow their own trumpets anyway) have not erected a statue like the others.

It is clear that Antarctica was first seen in early 1820, and that's about as much as we can say...

AND SO WE SAY FAREWELL TO ANTARCTICA! And head North back across Drakes Passage to the Falkland Islands (Malvinas).

South Georgia off to the Right.

Below is a Map of our route around the Antarctic Peninsula, together with a certificate as evidence that we have "been to Antarctica"!

Yesterday, Sunday 2-Feb-25, we travelled across Drake's Passage to the Falklands (aka Malvinas), arriving there (at Stanley, the capital) this morning, Monday, 3-Feb-25. Here are some views around Stanley, which has a population of about 2,500, with another 1,200 scattered around the 778 islands (4,700 sq miles). There's also another 4,000+ service personnel stationed at the 2-3 bases on the Islands.

Today, Monday 3-Feb-25, we spent on the Falkland Islands (actually, all of it was spent on East Falkland Island, which comprises 54% of the Falklands' area). Apart from having a look around the town of Stanley, and some of the countryside on our tour, the main objective was to visit a Gentoo penguin colony at Bertha's Beach, just over an hour's drive from Stanley (some on very rough roads/tracks). Anyway, it was quite magical to be able to get up really close to up to 1,000 Gentoo penguins (with many chicks still with their baby down, some moulting), and one solitary King penguin (who was about to moult, so was quite passive, but well-fed!). We saw another King penguin on our way there (and back), all on his own, maybe lost?? There's about 1 million penguins (5 different breeds) on the Falklands, so there are plenty of places to catch up with them! Here are some photos... Notice in the second photo a Gentoo penguin with a chick tucked up in front but poking his head out (I didn't realise I'd captured this till I checked all my photos, so didn't follow up on this chappie).

The solitary King penguin standing on the edge of the Gentoo colony. He's fat and still, which means he's ready to moult - this can take 3-4 weeks, during which he will not enter the water nor feed, hence his current proportions. Another solitary King penguin, miles from the colony we visited, but came across him in a river near the road bridge. This one has more normal colouring. Then some Upland Geese, and an Oyster Catcher.

Tuesday, 4-Feb-25:
And so last night we set off again, bound for Montevideo, Uruguay.

Thursday, 6-Feb-25:
Today, Thursday 6-Feb-25, we reached Montevideo, Uruguay and spent some of the day touring the main sights. Here is a selection, which included the Parliament building (considered to be one of the 10 most beautiful worldwide), the main market and the port market, Bar Facal for a meal and a beer (and a taste of Mate, the traditional tea for this and nearby countries), a tango demo on the pavement outside the Bar, and Independence Square (with its imposing Salvo Palace).

Friday, 7-Feb-25:
We had booked a "debark" tour of the city, which then took us to the (more remote) airport. Here are some pics from the tour of Buenos Aires. We first stopped at the Recoleta cemetery, housing many ornate mausoleums, including that of Eva Peron (Duarte).

Tour of Buenos Aires, Friday 7-Feb: our second stop was the Plaza de Mayo (May Square) commemorating the revolution in May 1810 which gained Buenos Aires (and later all Argentina) its independence from Spain. Also, plenty of trees, including many flowering varieties.

Tour of Buenos Aires, 7-Feb: thirdly (lastly) we visited the La Boca area, sporting the Boca Juniors stadium, as well as the brightly coloured and balconied housing, dating from the time when it was a poor area and people cobbled together what material they could find (mostly corrugated iron from the nearby Port) then painted it in bright colours to add cheer. Lots of souvenirs and alleys, and a Tango troupe that roped me in to posing in Caminito...

It all got quite frenetic (a "slow burn" kind of frenetic!) after that (5 hours waiting at Buenis Aires airport, 2 hours flight to Santiago, 4 hours wait in Santiago, 15 hours flight to Sydney, 4 hours wait in Sydney, 4 hours flight to Perth). But that was all ahead of us. Here's the route map that FB provided; as it happens, this is nothing like the actual route, which took us down the coast of Chile, skirting Antactica, then coming back up over Tasmania (see pics below)!

As you can imagine, we were quite exhausted upon finally arriving in Perth, especially Christine and Helen who by then were showing serious signs of respiratory infection (Chris had both Bronchitis & Pneumonia, Helen Bronchitis, as was later discovered).
Notwithstanding the way the holiday ended, it was a marvellous experience, which I wouldn't have missed for the world! I hope you've enjoyed coming along with us vicariously!

Alex Reid
13-Feb-25/ 28-Feb-25

Blog based on Facebook posts made by Alex Reid during a cruise on board the Sapphire Princess from Buenos Aires to Antarctica and back, 21-Jan-25 to 7-Feb-25.

Click on any image to get a higher-resolution version.